Across the Square in a pink stucco building with kitschy '70s decor, the Hong Kong on Mass Ave. serves traditional Americanized Chinese favorites: combination specials, Peking Ravioli, Beef and Broccoli. Open until 2 a.m. every night but Monday, the frequently rowdy Kong is a great place to catch a late-night snack.

For spicier Asian dishes, visit the Square's equally good Thai restaurants, Siam Garden on Mt. Auburn Street, Bangkok House on JFK Street and Singha House at 1105 Mass. Ave. Be prepared to suffer silently as spicy shrimp assault your palate--each eatery's subdued atmosphere discourages vocal displays of pain. The food is far from bland, but the portions are small and expensive.

Shilla on Winthrop Street offers Japanese and Korean fare--sushi, barbecued meats and noodle soups. Real noodle fanatics will want to take the T to Porter and walk to the Porter Square Exchange to find a food court of Japanese noodle restaurants. The noodle soups there are a bit salty and bland, but can provide a pleasant change of pace from typical Harvard Square offerings.

Indian

Indian restaurants here offer some lunch deals that are difficult to resist.

The Bombay Club on JFK Street has an all you can eat buffet for $5.95 and Tandoor House on Mass Ave. has generous portions and an owner who loves Harvard students. There, a hearty lunch costs just $5.

India Gate on Holyoke Street also serves moderately priced entrees. The Cafe of India on Church Street offers a cozy atmosphere but inconsistent dishes.

For Middle Eastern fare, visit the recently re-opened Casablanca on Brattle Street on dine in a lively atmosphere under stills from the 1942 movie. Skewers on Mt. Auburn Street offers ample portions of rice and shawarma (or gyros) and Greek salad for great prices. Both restaurants serve hamburgers for the less adventurous.

The Square is conspicuously lacking in genuine high-quality Mexican fare. Its most popular Tex-Mex restaurant, The Border Cafe on Church Street, generally wins lukewarm reviews from people used to the genuine article.

While the food may come up short with some, the restaurant is a hopping place. Border is a bad place to go in a rush--even on weekday nights, the wait for one of their heavy wooden tables often lasts as long as an hour. Once inside, soak up the Border's festive atmosphere while waiting even longer for the fajitas. Clothing worn to the Border tends to soak up more than just the surroundings, and leaves the place smelling mesquaite grilled.

For more traditional American fare, visit 33 Dunster Street, Harvard Square's version of Bennigan's and Friday's. A menu of mainstream favorites: nachos, salads, steaks, hamburgers, is adequate but boring.

At Souper Salad in the Garage, stick with the specialities--soups and salads. The salad bar offers a variety of delicacies like couscous and pineapple, plus an outrageously scrumptious fresh bread selection. Other entrees are simply not worth tasting.

And stay away from Grendel's on JFK Street, where the portions are meager and dishes unremarkable.