For dessert, the Cafe Expresso is a must--the extra pounds will be worth it. Another dessert (or breakfast) choice is La Baguette Bakery. It's just a hole in the wall, but the pastries and bread are from heaven (or France, if you want to be picky).
If you want food and drink--a real Memphis experience--walk along Beale Street after dark. Memphis' "other" music isn't country but blues straight from the Delta. B.B. King's or the Rum Boogie Cafe are good picks, or you can just wander around and listen. You won't be bored.
For dancing, look for the Omni/New Daisy or perhaps 616, which claims to be "as close to New York as it gets." But remember that you're in the Bible Belt. A recent Memphis magazine poll found "Dancing is the work of the devil!" to be a popular response to the "Best Place for Dancing" question.
Avoid the Mall of Memphis or Hickory Ridge Mall unless you really need to see another mall. Instead, try the beautiful, relaxing Oak Court and enjoy a cup of frozen yogurt. (Ice cream isn't big around these parts.)
If you want to see all of Memphis, just get in your car and drive. Watch the landscape change from the downtown business district to the busy streets and quiet homes of Midtownto the beautiful--and expensive--surroundings of East Memphis.
Germantown has the biggest houses, the highest per capita income and the most fastidious taste. It rejected the new national Shell station decor because it was tacky. Cordova--which may or may not be part of Memphis--is just a little livelier. Raleigh, Bartlett and Frayser claim not to be hick suburbs, but you should go see for yourself.
Be prepared for the unexpected in Memphis. The only certainty of Memphis weatheris that it will be hot in July and August. TheCity has been known to experience tanning weather,snow and highs in the 80s during the same week.Bring both sweatshirts and stores.
By the way, Memphis drivers are insane. Carsstop for pedestrians in Cambridge; in Memphis,drivers truly believe that society would be betteroff without stupid jaywalkers. Even the streetsare weird, changing names at several points (unionchanges to Walnut Grove, Ridgeway to HickoryHill.)
Just remember: If you find yourself on a roadwithout any street signs, you're not in theTwilight Zone-you're on Elvis Presley Boulevard.Tell yourself you ain't nothin' but a houn' dawgand speed along