We all have favorite burger joints in the Square, and we can debate for hours whether Felipe’s or Boloco concocts the better burrito (for the record, Felipe’s wins hands down). But where should the hungry Harvard student go when he has a hankering for something more exotic?
Last Sunday, appetite in tow, I trekked up Kirkland Street to Savenor’s Market. Julia Child used to frequent this famed foodie haunt, a carnivore’s fantasyland that stocks every cut of meat imaginable and provides its products to local restaurants like Upstairs on the Square and Radius.
Perusing the butcher’s section, I overheard a market employee apologetically tell one dejected customer that Savenor’s was out of ostrich fillets. Shame. Wild boar meat suddenly caught my eye. I momentarily had fantasies of preparing a hearty boar ragu with pappardelle noodles, but the slow simmering necessary wouldn’t be feasible in my dorm room. Instead, I settled on a more George Foreman-friendly kangaroo loin. I also impulsively purchased some duck foie gras and a carton of figs that were starved for attention in this meat emporium.
Then it was off to Formaggio Kitchen on Huron Avenue, about a 15 minute walk from the Yard near the Quad, where I picked up a block of Greek halloumi cheese.
My third stop was Cardullo’s in Harvard Square. I had to gather a few items to pull together the dormitory feast I envisioned. As brash and tacky as Savenor’s is sophisticated and unassuming, Cardullo’s sells everything from the grossly excessive ($275 Beluga Malossol caviar) to the decidedly campy (blueberry lollipops with edible scorpion centers). I purchased crisp toast as a receptacle for the foie gras, spicy cranberry and wasabi jam, and balsamic-cherry syrup.
I made a final stop at the budget-friendly Shalimar India Food & Spices Store in Central Square for crushed red chilies, coconut milk, bamboo skewers, and coriander (cilantro)—all for under $10.
Back in Lowell House, I plugged in my faithful George Foreman Grill, cut the halloumi into wedges, and sliced figs in half. I browned the cheese wedges on the grill and caramelized the figs the same way. I arranged these atop a bed of mixed greens tossed with lemon juice, a touch of olive oil, salt, and pepper. As a finishing touch I drizzled on balsamic-cherry syrup. I could not have been more pleased with the result. The brininess of the cheese wonderfully complemented the plump, juicy figs, and the syrup seeped in with the lemon juice to create a delightful balance of sweet and sour.
I next seared the foie gras on the grill and heated up some of the cranberry jam in my microwave to give it a more sauce-like consistency. I stirred a tablespoon of rendered duck fat into the jam for richness, and spooned this atop the crisp toast next to the foie gras. What a simple yet sinfully decadent creation.
Finally, I cut the kangaroo loin into strips and marinated them in coconut milk and the dining hall’s Thai peanut dressing for an hour. I then skewered the strips and grilled them for 3 minutes until they were cooked to medium rare (kangaroo meat is very lean, so it is important not to overcook it). I made a dipping sauce out of honey, peanut butter, crushed chilies, lime juice, salt, and pepper and heated it in the microwave. Coriander and lime slices served as garnish. Unfortunately, due to freezing, the texture of the kangaroo meat was stringy. Still, its mysterious gaminess shone through and the dish ended up a hit with my roommates.
I ebulliently polished off the meal with a scorpion lollipop and vowed to sample Savenor’s venison tenderloin next week. Why settle for the mundane—think carnitas quesadilla—when such exotic cuisine can be simply prepared within the confines of your dorm room?
